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Bird watching at Bharatpur
A bird sanctuary on the migration path of the last breeding pair of Central Siberian Storks. Magnus missed the extinction-bound beauties, understandably distracted by the extravagant plumage and aggressive mating ritual of the lesser-spotted Cherylus Tournius. |
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On the tiger trail
Hunting down the 40-odd wild tigers on a jungle safari at Ranthambore National Park, we came suddenly face-to-face with this magnificent creature. Truly a king of the jungle, this beast has 'killer' written over its ravenous man-devouring face. |
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Cities of Pink, Gold and Blue
Rajputs reject the monochrome monotony of the desert, splashing their buildings with bright colours. The old city of Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan state, is painted a garish pink (though rampant pollution is turning it a brownish-red). Deep in the Great Taar Desert, Jaisalmer is a magical town of medieval buildings fashioned from golden sandstone surrounding a breath-taking fairytale fort. Rising above Jodphur (home to the famous trouser-wear) is a massive fort, so impregnable that it was never taken by invaders. Surrounding houses are painted bright blue - symbol of the priestly caste, Brahmins, and believed to be an effective mosquito repellant. |
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Anyone for a gem scam?
Spending time with a friendly local, Manish, alarm bells began to ring when we were encouraged to consider the easy money we could make by couriering gems back to Britain in a 'legal' tax-avoidance scheme. As these scams usually end with large debits from your credit card while the foolish punters heads home carefully guarding a bag full of worthless glass beads - we made our excuses and left... |
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Camel Safari deep into the Great Taar Desert
For 4 days we journeyed across the blazing desert, past abandoned old villages now re-populated by Hindu refugees from the war with Pakistan in 1971, ancient temple ruins, cacti and sand, sand, sand as far as the eye could see... |
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Sunrise on the dunes
After making camp and singing songs while the daal (lentils) and chapatti cooked, we lay down under a night sky bursting with stars and drifted off to sleep. Shivering, we awoke with the sunrise - boy, deserts get COLD at night! |
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Rajasthani man
Turban tied, 'tash twirled and a stick brandished - a perfect picture of desert manhood. |
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Rajasthani women get rough end of the stick
The Rajputs were proud and successful warriors. When battles didn't go so well and a fort was surrounded by overwhelming forces, rather than submit to the shame of defeat (and probable rape and pillage of their towns) the men donned saffron robes and rode out for glorious death in a final battle. Meanwhile, the women built a giant funeral pyre and leapt upon it, in an act known as Sita, burning themselves to death! Yikes! |
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The name's Bond
The opulent Lake Palace Hotel - location for the James Bond movie Octopussy - is set in the middle of picturesque Udaipur lake. There we dined in toffish splendour. Magnus let the side down though, ordering a dry martini - shaken, not stirred! |
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Washing ghats
By the waterside, women attend to the washing in uniquely Indian style. Clothes are returned spotless after a brutal battering with a cricket bat that purges all dirt but totally ruins clothes in just a few washes. |
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Holi giant syringes, Batman
'How would one use this thing?', visiting dignitary Ms Cheryl Tourney enquires primly on an official tour of a local marketplace. |
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The Holi Festival
As part of the exuberant festival to celebrate the arrival of spring we were pelted with various shades of coloured paint by pretty much everyone we met. We were forewarned so left our Sunday best at home. |
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