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Highlights of the Grand Canyon    (June 2006)

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As a special treat we booked a 9 day rafting expedition down the Grand Canyon, hoping for a classic experience of gigantic white water, towering cliffs and timeless adventure on the mighty Colorado river.

Grand Canyon Fast Facts:
Best Thing: An invigorating soaking on exhilarating rapids after hiking 5000ft down in punishing heat
Worst Thing: Trekking to remote Eden-like tiered falls only to find the local YMCA had occupied the area!
Big Surprise: Snow! - Actually a thin, white ash drifting from forest fires blazing a mile above on the rim
Fun Fact: Outrageously, plans are afoot to dam the Grand Canyon!


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A Bad Omen?

On the canyon rim, a giant smoke plume casts a pall over a sickly red sun.

The fire would rage throughout our trip, sending ash and occasional blasts of hot, smoky air to the depths of the canyon below.

Rafting the Grand Canyon

We hoped this would be the experience of a lifetime and were not disappointed.

The trek to the bottom of the canyon was over a mile straight down to an ethereal world of alternating serenity and heart-pumping all-action teamwork to navigate some of the biggest rapids in the world.

In addition, the team of guides provided expert insight into the history, geology and ecology of the Canyon as we hiked the varied microclimates of the side-canyons.

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All Forward!

The final seconds preparing for a big rapid seem quiet:

Chatter stops, paddles at the ready, feet wedged in as tight as they can get. Hearts beat faster, breath quickens, drowned by the growing roar of the tumult ahead.

"All Forward!" calls the guide and 7 paddles attempt to drive the raft forward in a smooth motion. No time for thought now, just 100% focus on coordinated digging into the foaming water that tilts the boat precariously up then down; side to side.

A wall of white water crashes over the raft, for a moment it is hard to tell up from down; inexpert oars lose their rhythm as towering waves loom overhead. The raft stalls on a giant crest and seems about to flip.

With a redoubled effort the raft is pulled over the final obstacle. Soaked-to-the-skin but jubilant, paddles are raised with a guttural, primal roar - we made it!

Calm, smooth water slows both raft and heartbeats and we relax, gazing up at the canyon cliffs and drifting into a reverie.

Check out this exciting (if a bit jumpy) video of Robyn´s boat going down Laaavaaaa Falls.

Micro-climates of the Grand Canyon

In July the floor of the Grand Canyon gets really hot - easily exceeding 100 degrees each day - an inhospitable climate.

On narrow, shaded side canyons, however, microclimates exist that support near-tropical environments like these gorgeous tiered falls.

We investigated hidden caves behind the waterfalls - adventures that perfectly counterpointed our time on the river.

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Cooling Off?

or

Heating Up?!                                                

Ancient Peoples of the Canyon

Despite the climate, native Americans have inhabited the Grand Canyon for thousands of years.

This Anasazi grain store and Pueblan petroglyph of a warrior provide a window into the world of these semi-nomadic peoples.

The optimistically-endowed petroglyph is echoed in sketches on gents toilet doors across the world, showing some things never change!

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All Good Things...

The final rapid bested, we kick back over a beer with our new friend Gary.

The experience was alternately relaxing and frenetic, meditative and educational.

With our tremendous group of fellow rafters and guides, we savoured the bitter-sweet feeling of something wonderful coming to an end.

- See a video of Robyn´s boat going down Laaavaaaa Falls
- See more pictures from this section
- Go to next section : Southwest USA
- Go to previous section : Central USA

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