Highlights of Cambodia
skulls at killing fields
click for larger image 		The Killing Fields

In April 1975 the Khmer Rouge, led by the secretive Pol Pot, took over Cambodia and began an extreme experiment in Maoist agrarian reform. The towns were emptied and everyone marched into the countryside to work on collective farms. Intellectuals, people who had lived 'soft' lives or anyone not deemed a base peasant were routinely rounded up and executed.

The mass graves at the Killing Fields are a grim testament to the c.2 million people who died during the 3 years of Khmer Rouge rule. As a result Cambodia today has a very young population and the number of amputees caused by landmines is pretty depressing.

As is the fact that British special forces helped train the Khmer Rouge in how to lay mines effectively!
Check mate - Cambodian style

So, it turns out in Cambodian chess the king and queen can jump OVER pieces!

Unfortunately, Magnus was not able to adapt to that change in time to avoid being whopped by this wily old fox.

Here he takes off a single shoe in a traditional sign of supplication. 		magnus gets whooped
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cheryl in front of napoleans gift
click for larger image 		Napoleon III - what were you up to?!

Plonked in the middle of the towering buddhist structures of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is a bizarrely incongruous piece of French architecture.

Apparently this was a gift from Napoleon III and was transported from France and reassembled piece by piece.
Blue skies, green trees, red roads

In the 'wild north east' of Cambodia lies the Ratanakiri region; home to remote hill tribes, unexplored jungle and an airport runway of heart-stoppingly uneven dirt track.

After a few days charging around these roads on the back of motorbikes our clothes were pink and our lungs must have looked like those of a 60-a-day smoker (of pink cigarettes...). 		view from our hotel balcony
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cheryl displacing masses of water
click for larger image 		Eureka!

In a moving tribute to her mentor, Archimedes, Professor Cheryl Tourney proves displacement theory in the crystal waters of the volcanic crater lake, Boeng Yeak Loam.

And how!
How do I get OFF this thing?!

cheryl on elephant
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aahhhh ah ooh oh ooooh
click for larger image 		Magnus, Lord of the Jungle

Entirely lost in a fantasy world, Magnus clings precariously to a swinging vine, suspended heroically above the torrent that rages inches below.

He was last seen riding off on an elephant 'looking for Jane'.
Where's the treasure?!

Cheryl reaches a hidden cave behind a remote waterfall, searching for great treasure or surely at least the gateway to an elephant's graveyard.

All she found was that she had become sole entrant (and winner) of an impromptu wet T-shirt competition. 		cheryl behind chaa ong waterfall
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fear stage 2
click for larger image 		Treacherous trekking in Virachay National Park

Raw fear etched on our explorer's face as he tip-toes across a ravine.

Virachay has yet to be fully explored so strange undiscovered beasties may lurk round every tree.

The most dangerous thing we saw was vicious fire ants that attack entirely unprovoked.
Crazy Kreung Customs

Staying the night with the Kreung minority tribe we were lucky to arrive on the evening they celebrate the gathering of the rice harvest.

We joined in as best we could with the singing and quaffing vast quantities of freshly fermented rice wine.

Meanwhile the women get on with the real work - but in a strange local twist, Kreung ladies work while smoking a pipe and wearing saucy bras! 		swirling and pounding rice
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the most comfortable bed EVER
click for larger image 		There's nothing like a good night's sleep

And this was nothing like a good night's sleep.

Our tiny hammocks 'supported' by a creaking bamboo hut on the verge of collapse offered only the briefest excursions to snoozeland giving us all night to enjoy the sounds of the jungle and the starry sky overhead.
Hanging on for dear life

Cambodia has to some of the most pot-holed roads in SE Asia.

A great alternative is to travel the rivers by aquafoil. And on a sunny day, why not sit on the roof for the 5 hour high speed trip from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap?

Well, perhaps because of the logistical problems of accessing the toilet mid-journey! 		danger magnus danger
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us in our tuk tuk
click for larger image 		Tuk-tuk express

Exploring the famous ruins of Angkor Wat is best done by zipping between the sites on an onomatopoeically named 'tuk-tuk'.

These high performance vehicles can reach speeds of up to 15mph when opened up on the flat.
Cheryl and the Bayon at sunrise

Cheryl lines up for a profile shot with one of the Bayon, giant sentinel figures of Jayavarman VII who was a great ruler of the Khmer Empire.

Over the years these temples have been attacked and many of the heads removed or defaced by Thai invaders, Khmer Rouge insurgents and more recently by trophy hunters gathering antiques for the international black market.

Our message - Let Bayons be Bayons! 		bayon cheryl
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bayon heads
click for larger image 		More enigmatic than the Mona Lisa

The faint smiles of the Bayon heads face each cardinal direction to symbolise the omnipotence of the god-king. Their scale and beauty certainly had us awe struck.
Ruins in the jungle

The ruined temples of Ta Prohm are locked in a fatal embrace with trees whose massive roots are slowly reclaiming their territory.

Bad flick fans will be interested to note the jungle scene from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was filmed here. 		mnc at ta prohm
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angkor wat lake 3
click for larger image 		Angkor Wat by sunrise

The largest religious structure in the world, silhouetted by a blood-red sunrise.

Suddenly, getting up at 4:30am didn't seem like such a chore.
And by day

The structure of Angkor Wat is a miniature of the ancient Khmer universe.

The central tower represents Mount Meru, home of the gods. Surrounding are the lesser mountains, lower courtyards (symbolising the continents) and the moat (the oceans). 		angkor wat full 4
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full chested apsaras
click for larger image 		Apsaras

These heavenly nymphs await the king's ascent to heaven, frolicking with boundless amorous desires.

Lucky old king.
Scene from the Ramayana

In the landmine-strewn ruins of Banteay Srei, gorgeous carved lintels are mounted above the temple doors.

In this scene from the Hindu epic Ramayana, nasty 10 headed, 10 armed Ravana (abductor of the lovely Sita), tries to lift up a mountain (as you do) much to the amusement of the monkey king and Shiva, sitting unperturbed on top of the hill. 		lintel
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